Understanding camera settings...

[sujoyp]

D5100+18-250 It dosnt look so but anyways its a tabletop tripod

 

[nac]

I have a little doubt about focal length. I googled but couldn't find an answer.

There are two cameras A and B.
A's lens range is 24mm-100mm
B's lens range is 28mm-120mm

Sure there will be a good difference at wide angle as A is wider than B. So it would cover more than B. And sure B go closer than A as it's focal length is higher at telephoto. But my doubt is...
Will both camera cover the same area at 100mm? or
A will cover more as it is wider?
It may seems silly, but I would like to clear it. I can understand, it's wide at wide angle how come it will be wide at telephoto. But still...

 

[binarycodes]

I have a little doubt about focal length. I googled but couldn't find an answer.

There are two cameras A and B.
A's lens range is 24mm-100mm
B's lens range is 28mm-120mm

Sure there will be a good difference at wide angle as A is wider than B. So it would cover more than B. And sure B go closer than A as it's focal length is higher at telephoto. But my doubt is...
Will both camera cover the same area at 100mm? or
A will cover more as it is wider?
It may seems silly, but I would like to clear it. I can understand, it's wide at wide angle how come it will be wide at telephoto. But still...

The widest A can go is 24mm and the widest B can go is 28mm.

At 28mm to 100mm both has the same FOV (other than some minor construction/calibaration differences, if any).

 

[sujoyp]

At each focal length (assuming the sensor size is same) the FOV will be same

But do remember this may be true in P&S coz of similar sensor size 1/2.3" but not in DSLRs

 

[nac]

Thanks Binarycodes and Sujoy.

So if the sensor size differs FOV will also differ. I understand bigger the sensor more the coverage.

 

[sujoyp]

So if the sensor size differs FOV will also differ. I understand bigger the sensor more the coverage.

correct

 

[nac]

New found...

Use tungsten (white balance) when you shoot sky (in a day light) or something blue. It gives a nice blue colour. But just remember it makes blue, bluer and other colour gets blue tint a little. Just I am posting couple of shots to see the difference. Check it guys...

*img204.imageshack.us/img204/5051/img5313c.jpg

*img845.imageshack.us/img845/2461/img5314h.jpg

 

[sujoyp]

good find nac

 

[nac]

Nice pics.

I need advice on shooting photos. I have an EPM1, and i have a problem like... when i would go to some party and take pics, it focuses on the nearest faces and blurs out the ones a bit far. How do i get all of them into focus?? Kinda bummer for a party pic.
Also, for low light, the shutter speed becomes too low. A normal PnS camera can shoot a pic with no shake at all, while, i have to make sure no one is moving while i take the pic.. else it gets blurry.
recently i went to a butterfly park, and in all the pics, the wings were blurry. While same place i had been with a Panasonic PnS, the wings were very clear. Why is the default shutter speed so low?

And if i increase the shutter speed, the pics become completely dark.

what mistake am i doing? Anyone with a good point and shoot cam may take better pics than me handling this epm1 .

If you want everything in focus, set smaller/est Av. It's nice to have the focus on the subject and blur everything else.

Your cam has bigger sensor, so it should be better than PnS in low light. I don't know... Whether your PnS increase ISO while you kept at low sensitivity in your EPM.

Using one or all of the following will help you increase shutter speed
* Using larger/est Av
* Increasing ISO (higher will result in some noisy picture)
* Using negative exposure
* Using flash

For static subject, you can longer exposure. For that use tripod or some flat surface like table or something...

 

[thetechfreak]

@nac WOW! thanks a lot for that
Got so excited that I took four shots to see effects-

1) This is the original scene, to be used for reference

*i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/thetechfreak/Photography%20Experiments/IMG_2074.jpg

2) With the Tungsten effect

*i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/thetechfreak/Photography%20Experiments/IMG_2075.jpg


Great Blue colour. a bit too blue at some places


3)White "Tubelight" effect

*i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/thetechfreak/Photography%20Experiments/IMG_2076.jpg


4) Shady Effect

*i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u442/thetechfreak/Photography%20Experiments/IMG_2079.jpg


Surprisingly same like the first one.

 

[nac]

^ Yeah, its getting blue tint. So its better to use when we need the scene to be blue.

 

[Soumik]

@Nac - Thanks. Its good to have the effect of background blurring, but not always. Its good for portraits and some fancy photography. But in a team parties, you want to capture all the people.. not capture the nearest one and blur out the rest. It kinda spoils the mood.

Thanks for the tips... i try them out in my room. This is.. in Shutter priority mode, if i increase the shutter speed, it just gets very dark.

And my auto mode seems to be completely auto.. I mean no iso settings in there.. gotta read the manual properly!

For the butterfly pics i was talking abt.. :
P and S- (pic quality not good, but no blur in wings)
*www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150690541855005&set=a.10150690521845005.696463.623935004&type=3
EPM1- (heavily edited to hide the bur of wings)
*www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151829675610005&set=a.10151829663315005.858114.623935004&type=3

Let me know if you cant access the pics.. will upload in tiny pic and post

 

[nac]

Yeah, sometimes we want narrow depth of field and sometimes don't.

No, that's in Aperture priority mode and yes, we can't adjust ISO in Auto mode.

Probably when you shoot that butterfly using PnS, wings wasn't moving. Just saying...

But try that things to increase shutter speed when you're in aperture priority mode.

Just a sample

Largest Av (f/3.4 in my cam) blurs the background and keeps the subject (battery) in focus
*img577.imageshack.us/img577/385/img5512dh.jpg

Smallest Av (f/8 in my cam) everything is in focus (decent)
*img405.imageshack.us/img405/7972/img5513b.jpg

 

[Soumik]

thanks... was able to keep maximum in focus by increasing the aperture..
But in low light... the shutter speed keeps decreasing too much. Sometimes it going down to 5 seconds!
F22 - *i46.tinypic.com/7u2q.jpg

F3.5 - *i45.tinypic.com/10fw1vo.jpg

See how the F22 image has shake and higher brightness due to longer exposure (6 sec.. compared to 1/13th sec )!

But it worked out great for outdoors... Not very bright.. but enough to get small enough shutter speeds both times (1/60 and 1/3200 respectively)

F22 - *i46.tinypic.com/2870yh0.jpg

F 3.5 - *i45.tinypic.com/furqdl.jpg

The background tank is a lot more in focus in the high aperture pic than the one in low aperture.

F22 -

 

[nac]

Yes, as you increase the aperture value, you're decreasing the window size which lets the light pass through the lens to the sensor. Smaller the window, deeper the depth of field and increase in exposure time (i.e, needs more time to pass enough light through the small window).

Smaller the aperture no. (larger aperture), more light can pass through and shutter speed will be higher and DOF will be narrow.
Larger the aperture no. (smaller aperture), little light can pass through and shutter speed will be longer and DOF will be deeper.

 

[Soumik]

Thanks for the information...
Can you also briefly tell me how is ISO related to this? What does that technically do?

 

[marvelousprashant]

Thanks for the information...
Can you also briefly tell me how is ISO related to this? What does that technically do?

ISO refers to sensitivity of sensor. Usually cameras have ISO ranging from 100-6400. Upper limit may be more. Increasing the ISO increases the sensitivity of sensor to light. It means the camera needs less light to capture the shot with proper exposure.

ISO can be used to increase the shutter speed (as less light is needed at higher ISO) A shot at ISO 100 in dimly lit condition will be blurry as it will need 1 second or more exposure. However the same shot at ISO 1600 will be perfect because of higher shutter speed.

The first shot you did with f22 was blurry. You can use ISO 800 or 1600 in these conditions for faster shutter speed.

Another use is capturing in low light without flash.

The important thing abut ISO is as you increase ISO, NOISE INCREASES too. Point and shoots tend to become very noisy above ISO 800. But your camera can shoot perfectly usable images at ISO 1600 IMO.

QUESTION


What is the use of different light metering settings : Evaluative, Center Weighted and Spot?

 

[sujoyp]

What is the use of different light metering settings : Evaluative, Center Weighted and Spot?

its very easy actually ...it works like its name

Evaluative - it will calculate an average light in the frame...and make the picture brightness according to that.

Center - it will check the brightness of only the center area of the picture and decide the overall exposure or brightness/dulness of the picture

Spot - spot checks the exposure of the point on which u will point it...it will expose the picture according to that...example if u spot at moon the camera will think the sky is very bright and try to darken it....but if u spot on sky the cam will think its too dark and will brighten the picture and overexpose the moon

 

[marvelousprashant]

@sujoyp thanks for the explanation. I still cannot figure out the use. I use full manual mode while shooting so exposure depends on f-number and aperture value right?

 

[sujoyp]

u may have heard of words like details washed out due to overexposure or sky became colorless or bird is clean but sky is white....these r all due to wrong exposure settings

try taking pic of sea using spot metering ...it will say the sea is too bright and make the overall pic dull

similarly try totake a pic of flower using evaluative metering it will overexpose the flower