Basic Guide Purchase a New System

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go4saket

9437077259
It will be there on the carton along with the serial no., month of import etc. BTW, dont lose the sl. no. since it will be required in case of any need for RMA. (Sl. No. should also be on a small sticker behind the monitor)

I asked about the date/month of mfg. because the later ones seem to have better quality and less problems. Mine bought during 10/2006 developed display problems during 6/2007 and it was replaced by a later model which also developed similar problems two months later and after RMA I got another one manufactured in July which seems to have better build quality and so far is is working fine. The present one or earlier ones didn't have either dead or stuck pixels. And as you mentioned, the overall display quality is very good.

Hey, you seem to be having the same TFT and also seem to have faced quite a lot of problems with it. Can you tell me what kind of problems did you face and was getting a replacement easy and how long did it take.
 

rollcage

AMD user for 9 yrs!!
@Choto Cheeta
Hey .. How much ultimate you can go in gaming.. My friend is thinking about this Dell XPS 420 .. budget around 70k, its good
but can we have something like Antec Cabinet, Coolmaster, ASUS SLI, Cosair, Quadcore1 2X 8600GT, Logitech Wireless Controllers, 22" TFT all built into one in that budget.
Is the asemble PC can be that reliable .. can we all that in this? what can we have in 70K .. Or On that budget Dell Rulz??

Please Just make a config .. with all that you can incorporate in this budget or more than that.

Regards
 

darklord

Cyborg Agent
@Rollcage,
If configured and setup properly, Assembled PC always works out to be a smarter choice.Heres an example,

Intel Core2Quad Q6600 -------------------------> 10,500/-
Abit IP35-E Motherboard ------------------------> 5,800/-
2 x 1GB Transcend DDR2 800---------------------> 2400/-
500GB Western Digital AAKS Series SATA II -------> 5,800/-
Viewsonic 22" WS LCD ---------------------------> 16,000/-
Corsair HX620W PSU -----------------------------> 7,000/-
LG/Samsung DVD-RW ----------------------------> 1300/-
Keyboard+Optical Mouse -------------------------> 1500/-
Nvidia Geforce 8800GT 512MB---------------------> 15,000/-
Coolermaster CM690 Chassis ---------------------> 4,000/-

Total --------------------------------------------> 69,300/-

Now compare this config to the Dell one and see which one looks more powerful,tempting,vfm

Cheers !
Amey
 

janitha

Wise Old Owl
Hey, you seem to be having the same TFT and also seem to have faced quite a lot of problems with it. Can you tell me what kind of problems did you face and was getting a replacement easy and how long did it take.

It was all discussed in detail in this forum in the following threads.

*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48787&highlight=vx922
*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59736&highlight=vx922
*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62025&highlight=vx922
 
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Choto Cheeta

Choto Cheeta

Rebooting
@rollcage

Already answered by darklord... one may get a far getter gaming config under 70k vs that XPS 420 :) even I would say replace the Corsair 620 Watts with much cheaper Cooler Master 600 watts which is Rs. 3200/- :lol: so what is your budget ??
 

janitha

Wise Old Owl
Whats the difference between dead and stuck pixel. My monitor shows one red dot.

A dead pixel is defined as a pixel or set of sub-pixels that has failed and is permanently in the off position. This condition means that the pixel will not let any light through. This can be observed as a dark or black spot on a brightly colored or white background.

A stuck pixel is defined as a pixel or sub-pixel that has failed and is permanently in the on position. This can be either with a single or multiple sub-pixels for a given pixel and is best observed on a dark or black background. A white pixel means all three sub-pixels have failed while a green, red or blue pixel means one of the sub-pixels has failed.

From the following link
*compreviews.about.com/od/multimedia/a/LCDPixelDefects.htm
 

The_Devil_Himself

die blizzard die! D3?
hey choto:I have a spare 80gb sata1 hdd,I want to buy a USB casing for it so that I can use it as a big pen drive.I have some questions.

1.How much does it costs?Transcend one?I have a budget of around 600.

2.Are they safe to use?

3.Can they damage HDDs?
 
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Choto Cheeta

Choto Cheeta

Rebooting
^^read the article,but you have talked about IDE HDDs,do the same one works with SATA ones?

they look exactly the same :lol: just in my case the connecters are IDE where as in your case they would be SATA :lol:
 

upendra_gp

In the zone
I need help with fitting in a monitor in 30k with graphics card.
is Acer 19" widescreen TFT good? And will I be able to play 2008's games at least at medium settings on a 8600GT?
 

rollcage

AMD user for 9 yrs!!
@Choto Cheeta
@darklord

1. I just comment on the config latter on,

2. but the basic concern is reliability, Like we got the desktop from IBM last year,
there is not even a single problem or bsod,
But when ever .. you get the assemble .. once in a while something glichy happens.
the reliablity factor is so high with dell n ibm

3. And the components hey choose .. gets co compatible with each other.

then the we have these smart features, like that LCD on the cabinet .. is hard to find in Assemble PC.
these things make SP3 nothing .. this one has killing looks*i.dell.com/images/global/products/xpsdt/xps420_front.jpg
 

janitha

Wise Old Owl
@rollcage

I have been using PCs for last several years which I myself assembled with carefully chosen parts and the only HW problems I have faced are one HDD which I had to RMA once and my current high end LCD which had to be RMAed (in fact replaced) twice.

In short brands like those you mentioned are for those who cant bother or find time to bother, on selecting the parts etc. or those who don't care about the cost.
 
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