The Photography Thread

H

HTBR

Broken In
*c1.staticflickr.com/8/7488/27393276832_3981682d90_c.jpgMafex Joker Bank Robber Version by Baidujya Saikia, on Flickr

*c4.staticflickr.com/8/7454/26988800491_2ca99fafe1_c.jpgSH Figuarts Iron Man Mark 45 by Baidujya Saikia, on Flickr

*c5.staticflickr.com/8/7514/27236282836_27c90477e3_c.jpgSH Figuarts Darth Maul by Baidujya Saikia, on Flickr

*c5.staticflickr.com/8/7387/27470532756_77e7ac8603_c.jpgSH Figuarts Darth Maul by Baidujya Saikia, on Flickr
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
Nice.. What cam are you using? and how does your lens allow you to get that close.

No dispute, you have a great eye for detail and lighting
 
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izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
Minolta K2 Zoom f/4 70-210, I've had this lens for some time, but have now started getting the hang of using it. Finally started stopping it down to f/5.6 and using the inverse rule (shoot at 1/focal length) to get clear images.

Some samples from the last shoot

*c5.staticflickr.com/8/7366/27317841220_8539fc9229_c.jpg
Me not move by Amlan Mathur, on Flickr

*c5.staticflickr.com/8/7074/26983584684_84b63c4a03_c.jpg
Taking a break by Amlan Mathur, on Flickr

Would love feedback and tips on how to use this better
 
H

HTBR

Broken In
izzikio_rage said:
Nice.. What cam are you using? and how does your lens allow you to get that close.

No dispute, you have a great eye for detail and lighting
Click to expand...

I use a Panasonic GH4(mirrorless). The first n third pic were taken with a macro lens(Olympus 60mm) while the other two were taken with my favourite Panasonic 12-35mm. I think the minimum focus distance is 25cm.
 
R

raja manuel

In the zone
izzikio_rage said:
Would love feedback and tips on how to use this better
Click to expand...
Feedback: The photos are excellent. The second one might be better if the tail and feathers had been fully included but that is a framing issue.
The hexagonal bokeh is more obvious in the first than the second. If you wish to avoid this you might have to favour the second photo's shooting situation but that is just me nitpicking. The vast majority of people will not even notice the shape of the highlights in the background and it doesn't detract from the image in any way.
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
Framing issue, my fault. With all the things i was trying to change and then forcing the rule of thirds i noticed the cut tail in PP only.

Hex bokeh due to stopping down mostly. Could've changed angles to avoid that harshness of the colors in the second. Is that what you meant sujoy?
 
sujoyp

sujoyp

Grand Master
I think the harshness is due to light comming between leaves...in the first its much smoother
I think aperture is smaller in 2nd one, so you got smaller bokeh shapes and it is not looking soothing
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
Helios 44-2 58mm f/2

Finally got my hands on the cult favorite Helios 44-2 58mm f/2. The lens is battered and bruised but still a ton of fun not just for the swirly bokeh, but for the shots in general.

*c1.staticflickr.com/8/7265/27474909280_fab00eb36b_c.jpg
Swirly Bokeh ! by Amlan Mathur, on Flickr

The trademark Swirly bokeh of the lens. Needs a little bit of juggling to find the sweet spot of the distance of subject and background

*c5.staticflickr.com/8/7391/27718504956_27b708ab96_c.jpg
FOMO by Amlan Mathur, on Flickr

Does amazing at close up shots as well

Need to experiment some more with this
 
nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Re: Helios 44-2 58mm f/2

izzikio_rage said:
Finally got my hands on the cult favorite Helios 44-2 58mm f/2. The lens is battered and bruised but still a ton of fun not just for the swirly bokeh, but for the shots in general.
Click to expand...
Colours are good. Much better than the lens used in the previous post.
 
R

raja manuel

In the zone
The second image is nice and punchy. Can a lens give good colour, given that the sensor does not see colour? I know the lens is responsible for chromatic aberration which manifests as colour but technically that is a focussing issue.
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
So a lot of lenses have issues with how cleanly they collect light. Like you put a lens hood to eliminate light washing out the image. Similarly good lenses will have limited internal light reflection, will have limited light leakage. Plus will give much better contrast and sharper colors.

Seems like a good thing to test out though.
 
R

raja manuel

In the zone
Yeah a test would be good, with a lens of an identical focal length swapped out to photograph the very same scene immediately. To me, colour specifically refers to Hue (wavelength) and not Saturation or Value (in the HSV model). I know that others are not so specific when they refer to colour but I would still like to know what it is they are referring to when the sensor only counts photons and does not register wavelength. 'Good colour' from a lens is even more vague to me as I can use a wide variety of CLUTs to alter the colour in a raw file, and I assume that the camera has its own CLUT for JPG processing in addition to the demosaicing algorithm.
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
raja manuel said:
Yeah a test would be good, with a lens of an identical focal length swapped out to photograph the very same scene immediately. To me, colour specifically refers to Hue (wavelength) and not Saturation or Value (in the HSV model). I know that others are not so specific when they refer to colour but I would still like to know what it is they are referring to when the sensor only counts photons and does not register wavelength. 'Good colour' from a lens is even more vague to me as I can use a wide variety of CLUTs to alter the colour in a raw file, and I assume that the camera has its own CLUT for JPG processing in addition to the demosaicing algorithm.
Click to expand...
I barely understood that

But i thought the triad of photoreceptive sites on a camera sensor capture both light intensity and color information.

Will do that test at some point. My idea is that some lenses muddle the colors by reflections on the glass or inside the lens tube.
 
CRACING

CRACING

Journeyman
Hello Friends,

Today I have taken few test shots from my recently purchased Nikon AF-S DX 35mm F/1.8G lens. Note: Images are slightly post processed, cropped and resized.

@F/1.8
DSC_1643.jpg

@F/2.8
DSC_1645.jpg
DSC_1627.jpg

@F/5.6
DSC_1647.jpg
DSC_1619.jpg

I'm still new to big aperture setting and it takes some time to understand. F/1.8 has very shallow depth of field so little is in focus, even though I tried to keep away from the subject. When I stopped down, the whole object get focused nicely so I think I should stay around F/2.8 - F/5.8.

Looking forward for advice, suggestions or guide.

Thanks...
Best Regards
 
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