The Photography Thread

toofan

Technomancer
Faun: The portrait is very good. Its just popping out by the back-light provided by the sun.
Why I use ET. Just because I am low on budget to buy a dedicated Macro lens.

You have an awesome camera and it seems you will use it fully to its capacity very soon. Keep shooting. And do shoot at manual modes.

This has been shot from a distance of 1 to 2 inch from the subject. with 18-105 mm lens. with Extensions onn.
*farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5173552476_ae367c4eef_b.jpg

This is with a 50mm 1.8 reversed. distance between 1 to 2 inch.
*farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5426303869_ef5d27438a_b.jpg

Some latest shots.
*farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5608271394_c2a2bee95b_b.jpg

*farm6.static.flickr.com/5108/5607687317_aa87bc3b08_b.jpg
 

Faun

Wahahaha~!
Staff member
@sounava
I was trying candid photography. This one was the best, considering the smiling face :)

@a_medico
Shutter speed low, f number low and ISO settings ?

@toofan
Thanks buddy.

What else can be done with ETs ? Can I possibly go the telephoto way too just like macro can be done. I am considering honing my skills with the current lens and ETs.

These Macro shots are 1:2 ? I see your pics are rich in color. Retouch ?

Already trying manual mode for both shutter and aperture. I need to go to some good locations.

*farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5613762034_e30feaa91b_z.jpg

*farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5613179439_f70aea6446_z.jpg
 

rhitwick

Democracy is a myth
@sounava
I was trying candid photography. This one was the best, considering the smiling face :)
Well, the girl is cute and the photo is good, in a sense plain vanilla good, no x-factor.

I don't know what I was searching in it, but she has a cute face but........

@a_medico
Shutter speed low, f number low and ISO settings ?
ISO 80.
 

Krow

Crowman
@a_medico, I so so much want to click a car taillight photo. Not yet got a chance to be on such roads at night.
Like this? Trails of the Night | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

@Faun I like the first cloud pic. :) Looks a tad underexposed though.
 

Krow

Crowman
^We all get there eventually. I was messing up exposure in all my pics for over a year before I realised my White Balance was totally messed up. Then I set it right and my images improved slowly. Try and use the exposure value as an indicator when you click pictures.

Set shutter speed at x. Aperture at y. Check eV. If it is 0, then click. Else, change x and/or y so as to make eV 0. A negative eV means underexposed and positive eV means overexposed.

I think you might already know this. I didn't, so I am posting what I learnt. :)
 

Sounava

In the zone
@faun - Why has vignetting occurred in both the pictures? What lens was used?

Set shutter speed at x. Aperture at y. Check eV. If it is 0, then click. Else, change x and/or y so as to make eV 0. A negative eV means underexposed and positive eV means overexposed.

I think you might already know this. I didn't, so I am posting what I learnt. :)
Hehe you are in a sense right, though it all depends on the assumption that the camera is metering correctly. :razz:
Basically if you are always shooting with the shutter speed set in such a way that the meter shows 0 eV, then you may as well use Aperture Priority mode. The camera does just that, and in a fraction of a second.
 

Faun

Wahahaha~!
Staff member
^^I didn't know that. Thanks for telling me. I guess we need a thread for such tips and tricks :)

@faun - Why has vignetting occurred in both the pictures? What lens was used?

May be because i used spot and center weighted metering. Len Nikkor VR 18-105mm

Introduction to Metering Modes
 

Sounava

In the zone
^ Metering has nothing to do with light falloff at the edge of the sensor (i.e. vignetting). Were you using some local lens hood on the lens when you took the pictures?
 
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toofan

Technomancer
Thanks Sounava.

Faun: E.Ts will not give you telephoto. They just reduce the minimum focussing distance of the lens. You will not be able to focus far then 6 to 12 inches. Don't buy these yet.

First shoot with this lens and after 2 or 3 months you will find your genre.
examle: At first I shot everything that comes to my eyes. Later just found that Portraits and Macros excite me more. So started collecting gear for same.

Some suggestions about your composition skills.
Don't position your subject always in dead centre of frame.
Turn On the grids in your viewfinder and try to place the main object at the meeting points of those lines.
Try to Isolate the subject from background and make it as clean as possible.
 

Faun

Wahahaha~!
Staff member
^ Metering has nothing to do with light falloff at the edge of the sensor (i.e. vignetting). Were you using some local lens hood on the lens when you took the pictures?

No, I wasn't using any lens hood. Too much retouching bring about the vignetting effect drastically ?

Some suggestions about your composition skills.
Don't position your subject always in dead centre of frame.
Turn On the grids in your viewfinder and try to place the main object at the meeting points of those lines.
Try to Isolate the subject from background and make it as clean as possible.
I have already turned on the gridlines.
*i.imgur.com/UrN7y.jpg

But the gridlines are not present at the autofocus points.
 
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Sounava

In the zone
@ Faun - Can you attach the untouched photos here so that I can see whether vignetting has occured? I mean its actually quite strange that vignetting has occurred.

Also, D7000 has 39 focus points but the image you gave above has only 11 focus points (D90, D5000). How come? Wrong image by mistake?

P.S.: Don't hotlink images directly from other sites if it is not an image hosting site. If you want to include such images, upload the image to an image hosting site like imgur.com and give that link. I guess the moderators will agree on this.
 

Faun

Wahahaha~!
Staff member
@ Faun - Can you attach the untouched photos here so that I can see whether vignetting has occured? I mean its actually quite strange that vignetting has occurred.

Also, D7000 has 39 focus points but the image you gave above has only 11 focus points (D90, D5000). How come? Wrong image by mistake?

P.S.: Don't hotlink images directly from other sites if it is not an image hosting site. If you want to include such images, upload the image to an image hosting site like imgur.com and give that link. I guess the moderators will agree on this.
Where do you get the focus points details ? I can see only one focus point in my camera by enabling focus point info in settings. It was on auto focus. Image is correct. I don't have any other DSLR.

Here is the RAW image link (~17MB). Download it.
*dl.dropbox.com/u/131183/JIT_1613.NEF

Yeah, I will upload that image on image hosting. Done

^We all get there eventually. I was messing up exposure in all my pics for over a year before I realised my White Balance was totally messed up. Then I set it right and my images improved slowly. Try and use the exposure value as an indicator when you click pictures.

Set shutter speed at x. Aperture at y. Check eV. If it is 0, then click. Else, change x and/or y so as to make eV 0. A negative eV means underexposed and positive eV means overexposed.

I think you might already know this. I didn't, so I am posting what I learnt. :)
Hey dude ! I found that there is a exposure meter in viewfinder and all I have to do is try out combinations of aperture, shutter speed and ISO to set it to neutral. Getting good pics. Thanks dude for telling me, I read the manual and did some googling for that. :p
 

Sounava

In the zone
Where do you get the focus points details ? I can see only one focus point in my camera by enabling focus point info in settings. It was on auto focus. Image is correct. I don't have any other DSLR.
No no you got me wrong! I was talking about the image file of the viewfinder you gave in the last reply (about the reference grid line and stuff.)


Hey dude ! I found that there is a exposure meter in viewfinder and all I have to do is try out combinations of aperture, shutter speed and ISO to set it to neutral. Getting good pics. Thanks dude for telling me, I read the manual and did some googling for that. :p
Yup I said this in one of my previous replies -
Under the assumption that the camera meters the scene correctly, you will get correctly exposed shots under any combination of the exposure triangle (ie shutter speed, aperture, ISO) such that the meter in the middle postion of the scale (ie in the neutral postion). But, there are situations when the camera will incorrectly meter the scene. For these situations specifically the manual mode is needed. Otherwise the aperture priority mode does the job and there is no reason to use the manual mode.
What the aperture priority mode does is, you set the aperture and the ISO, and the camera sets the shutter speed so that the meter is in the neutral position. Similary in the Shutter Priority mode too - you set the shutter speed and ISO, camera sets the Aperture so that the meter is in the neutral situation.
Under Aperture priority mode, after taking a picture if you see that the picture is slightly underexposed, dial in some positive exposure compensation and picture will now come properly exposed. What the camera does is, it now reduces the shutter speed by the amount of stops you dialled the exposure compensation. Similar thing happens in Shutter priority mode. And ofcourse, the opposite happens if the image comes overexposed slightly.
So when is the manual mode required? When you want a particular combination of the exposure triangle and do not want the camera to fiddle with these 3 things.
 

Faun

Wahahaha~!
Staff member
No no you got me wrong! I was talking about the image file of the viewfinder you gave in the last reply (about the reference grid line and stuff.)
That was a random image from google to highlight the grid lines.


Yup I said this in one of my previous replies -
Under the assumption that the camera meters the scene correctly, you will get correctly exposed shots under any combination of the exposure triangle (ie shutter speed, aperture, ISO) such that the meter in the middle postion of the scale (ie in the neutral postion). But, there are situations when the camera will incorrectly meter the scene. For these situations specifically the manual mode is needed. Otherwise the aperture priority mode does the job and there is no reason to use the manual mode.
What the aperture priority mode does is, you set the aperture and the ISO, and the camera sets the shutter speed so that the meter is in the neutral position. Similary in the Shutter Priority mode too - you set the shutter speed and ISO, camera sets the Aperture so that the meter is in the neutral situation.
Under Aperture priority mode, after taking a picture if you see that the picture is slightly underexposed, dial in some positive exposure compensation and picture will now come properly exposed. What the camera does is, it now reduces the shutter speed by the amount of stops you dialled the exposure compensation. Similar thing happens in Shutter priority mode. And ofcourse, the opposite happens if the image comes overexposed slightly.
So when is the manual mode required? When you want a particular combination of the exposure triangle and do not want the camera to fiddle with these 3 things.

Aperture priority mode can lead to low shutter release and hence blurred images. ISO to compensate lower shutter speed.

Why not shutter priority mode, the only drawback will be shallow depth of field. Not much of a problem.

Yeah exposure indicator is not always right.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
I too find aperture priority mode simplest...

yesterday I tried to reverse mount 18-55 on 50mm and then 50mm on 18-55 and concluded that my current setup is better:razz:
50mm+ET

Toofan how do u use 18-105 reverse mounted can u post a pic please
 

ajayashish

Living to Succeed
Can u tell me what is ET and how to reverse mount the lens... i mean i am sure it will not fit in the gauge as it normally does
 
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