- Status
megahashim
Right off the assembly line
Hello friends. I too have joined your club of “Palit HD 4850 Sonic red-bands and green dots issue”.
Here’s my PC config first: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0Ghz, Gigabyte EP45-UD3R MB, Corsair XMS2 2GBx2 DDR2 800 Mhz RAM, Cooler Master 600W Duo SMPS, 500GB Seagate HDD, Cooler Master CPU fan heat sink and fan array
I read all of your issues and I have a few questions… just after this issue summary
1. I too see thick, red bars and green dots on my display when I boot into my Vista 32bit OS, and I can’t seem to play my games for more than 5 min. They crash just after I see red, square dots fill my screen. Most often I get a blue screen error which comes and goes so fast that I cannot read what it’s displaying. But I do see something regarding “dumping physical memory”. Must be some memory-clearing process just before the restart.
2. First I thought my card was not snugly fit into the PCI-E slot. So I took it out and fit it back tightly… issue PERSISTS!
3. Like a few of you mentioned, I tried nudging the free corner of the card (near the 8-pin power connector). Aha! I too started to see the issue clearing away… but voila! … red bars and green dots complemented by the blue screen!
My initial deductions: ● Card is faulty ● MB PCI-E connector too “open” to tightly hold the card ● Card too heavy due to the HUGE heat sink and fan array that the PCI-E slot is struggling to keep its copper contacts connected ● Driver issue (later discarded cuz all these seem to be HW/mechanical issues) ● Card’s power connector loose/faulty
I know my RAM’s not the issue cuz I tried other RAM and the issue persisted.
The PCI-E slot seemed to hold all copper contacts when I shined a torch at it nudged the card up and down. But still feel the heat sink and fan array is too heavy for this card. But now that few of you have gotten back replacements cards that are working fine I guess I’ll hold that thought.
The soldering on my card at the power connecter corner looked fine! Now is the 6 to 8-pin converter wire faulty? Come on… its just wires supplying current… what do you guys think? Could this be the issue?...
Anyway. I too am gonna try my hand at a replacement option with my dealer. ALSO, I must say this in support for the card – performance (when the games do manage to run) is top notch! Even Crysis ran OK at ALL HIGH settings (but mind you, at low resolution of 1152*864 – I have a 4:3 17" Samsung monitor)
Can anybody out there suggest a good HD4870 card from manufacturers other than Palit? Is Sapphire good? HIS? GeCube? Anybody???!
Thanks for the patient reading. Do reply
P.S.: Does Palit’s HD4870 Sonic Dual Edition have the same issue?
Here’s my PC config first: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0Ghz, Gigabyte EP45-UD3R MB, Corsair XMS2 2GBx2 DDR2 800 Mhz RAM, Cooler Master 600W Duo SMPS, 500GB Seagate HDD, Cooler Master CPU fan heat sink and fan array
I read all of your issues and I have a few questions… just after this issue summary
1. I too see thick, red bars and green dots on my display when I boot into my Vista 32bit OS, and I can’t seem to play my games for more than 5 min. They crash just after I see red, square dots fill my screen. Most often I get a blue screen error which comes and goes so fast that I cannot read what it’s displaying. But I do see something regarding “dumping physical memory”. Must be some memory-clearing process just before the restart.
2. First I thought my card was not snugly fit into the PCI-E slot. So I took it out and fit it back tightly… issue PERSISTS!
3. Like a few of you mentioned, I tried nudging the free corner of the card (near the 8-pin power connector). Aha! I too started to see the issue clearing away… but voila! … red bars and green dots complemented by the blue screen!
My initial deductions: ● Card is faulty ● MB PCI-E connector too “open” to tightly hold the card ● Card too heavy due to the HUGE heat sink and fan array that the PCI-E slot is struggling to keep its copper contacts connected ● Driver issue (later discarded cuz all these seem to be HW/mechanical issues) ● Card’s power connector loose/faulty
I know my RAM’s not the issue cuz I tried other RAM and the issue persisted.
The PCI-E slot seemed to hold all copper contacts when I shined a torch at it nudged the card up and down. But still feel the heat sink and fan array is too heavy for this card. But now that few of you have gotten back replacements cards that are working fine I guess I’ll hold that thought.
The soldering on my card at the power connecter corner looked fine! Now is the 6 to 8-pin converter wire faulty? Come on… its just wires supplying current… what do you guys think? Could this be the issue?...
Anyway. I too am gonna try my hand at a replacement option with my dealer. ALSO, I must say this in support for the card – performance (when the games do manage to run) is top notch! Even Crysis ran OK at ALL HIGH settings (but mind you, at low resolution of 1152*864 – I have a 4:3 17" Samsung monitor)
Can anybody out there suggest a good HD4870 card from manufacturers other than Palit? Is Sapphire good? HIS? GeCube? Anybody???!
Thanks for the patient reading.
Do replyP.S.: Does Palit’s HD4870 Sonic Dual Edition have the same issue?
then it is 100% your cards fault,nothing to do with any other components.
Just get it replaced that's it.
best of luck
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
Its the power supply.
Said it before- will say it again. even a cm extreme 600w can barely get 400w on operational temps of 40 degrees celcius. All extreme series have 70% efficiency and tested on operational temps of 25 degrees celcius. Operational temp increases, efficiency falls down. People dont think about power supplies and hook it up with expensive cards and expecting it to run properly. Google on cm extreme series and you will find them creating damage rather than giving stability. What's the point of people buying seriously good cards and without thinking for a moment frying the card and claiming that the card that is at fault? Are you trying to understand that a point I am putting up here? Hardware dont die for no reason at all. Cant buy a decent psu- dont expect a decent graphic card to run properly.
Said it before- will say it again. even a cm extreme 600w can barely get 400w on operational temps of 40 degrees celcius. All extreme series have 70% efficiency and tested on operational temps of 25 degrees celcius. Operational temp increases, efficiency falls down. People dont think about power supplies and hook it up with expensive cards and expecting it to run properly. Google on cm extreme series and you will find them creating damage rather than giving stability. What's the point of people buying seriously good cards and without thinking for a moment frying the card and claiming that the card that is at fault? Are you trying to understand that a point I am putting up here? Hardware dont die for no reason at all. Cant buy a decent psu- dont expect a decent graphic card to run properly.
@The Sorcerer
i guess you are wrong mate.
im using a Cooler Master PCAR-600 to power my Palit HD4850 Sonic and i have absolutely no problem,that is after i got my initial card replaced since it had a faulty Power port.
megahashim has clearly mentioned that the problem was clearing away when he nudged the card near the power port,and that's how i figured out my card was faulty.
Cooler Master PCAR-600 is not the BEST PSU but its a very good one esp. for a 4850.
4850 might be the max this PSU can handle.
@megahashim
i suggest you test you card with another PSU if possible...just to make sure.
i guess you are wrong mate.
im using a Cooler Master PCAR-600 to power my Palit HD4850 Sonic and i have absolutely no problem,that is after i got my initial card replaced since it had a faulty Power port.
megahashim has clearly mentioned that the problem was clearing away when he nudged the card near the power port,and that's how i figured out my card was faulty.
Cooler Master PCAR-600 is not the BEST PSU but its a very good one esp. for a 4850.
4850 might be the max this PSU can handle.
@megahashim
i suggest you test you card with another PSU if possible...just to make sure.
Last edited:
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
^^ dude just google it for crying out loud and get some facts right. No pun intended but I help other forums as well so giving my help here is bit of a time cruncher for me. It was allready exposed by Johny guru and another french review site that coolermaster 600 and 650w extreme are infact low grade version of seventeam 500w. None of the extreme lineups have an active pfc. coolermaster extreme lineups are know to kill systems before killing itself.
*www.newegg.com/Product/ProductRevi...=False&VendorMark=&Keywords=(keywords)&Page=2
Even a better arguement is put up in various forums- including jonny guru, xtremesystems, tech enclave and hardware secrets. Even VIP silver (with bluish casing) psu lineups have active pfc. Non japanese caps, no active pfc, copper heatsinks from seventeam replaced with aluminium ones, bad fans and tested on 25degrees operational temps and history of killing multiple system is proof enough. An extreme plus 460w is better than extreme since its tested on 40 degrees celcius. A comparison between real power 550w and the so called 600w even on cost and specifications will be enough for a person to do some digging.
*www.newegg.com/Product/ProductRevi...=False&VendorMark=&Keywords=(keywords)&Page=2
Even a better arguement is put up in various forums- including jonny guru, xtremesystems, tech enclave and hardware secrets. Even VIP silver (with bluish casing) psu lineups have active pfc. Non japanese caps, no active pfc, copper heatsinks from seventeam replaced with aluminium ones, bad fans and tested on 25degrees operational temps and history of killing multiple system is proof enough. An extreme plus 460w is better than extreme since its tested on 40 degrees celcius. A comparison between real power 550w and the so called 600w even on cost and specifications will be enough for a person to do some digging.
dude....i never said the PSU the best or anything!
i know its an avg stuff!
and you are not answering to the posters Q..you are answering something else!
i had the EXACT same prob what megahashim had.
i.e there are red stripes and green dots on the screen.
but when i nudged the power port of the HD4850 the dots and stripes would go away(happened with megahashim too).
hence i got my card replaced any i have absolutely no prob now.
so 90% chance is that the card is faulty with megahashim too.
i know there are chances the PSU can be faulty but since i had the EXACT same prob...its should be the card.
i know its an avg stuff!
and you are not answering to the posters Q..you are answering something else!
i had the EXACT same prob what megahashim had.
i.e there are red stripes and green dots on the screen.
but when i nudged the power port of the HD4850 the dots and stripes would go away(happened with megahashim too).
hence i got my card replaced any i have absolutely no prob now.
so 90% chance is that the card is faulty with megahashim too.
i know there are chances the PSU can be faulty but since i had the EXACT same prob...its should be the card.
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
I didnt say the psu is faulty. I said coolermaster extreme series (in a different way though) are sub standard power supplies for that price. You are blaming the card- which means you haven't made any efforts from your end to find about the psu by googling. The cm extreme is known to damage other parts of the system as well. How do you expect a psu without an active pfc to run properly on a system with an ati 4850?? People will naturally reply by saying "Hey I am using cm 500w extreme so far on so and so card and nothing happened- any explanations for that"- for these kind of people, they need to research on ripple, operational temps and efficiency. Once the electrolytic capacitors and main capacitors start to "die", it does start giving issues slowly- like hard drive, rams, graphic cards, etc. Sometimes it blows up immidiately and sometime its just another ticking timebomb.
Anyways its your system so your call. Dont expect a graphic card to run properly for a long time with a sub standard power supply. Buying cm extreme series (or any psu without an active pfc, better cooling, atleast 16-18 AWG wiring with professional finishing, soldering and good fans alongwith solid casing and main caps, electrolytic caps, pfc layer, MOVs- the list goes on) in this day of age is just plain silly. There were times that one was able to find Hipoxy resin between 2 electrolytic capacitors on the extreme series. Putting these powersupplies on a load tester will prove my point- something that real review sites like jonyguru and hardware secrets do and proved many psu's advertised specifications as WRONG.
Anyways its your system so your call. Dont expect a graphic card to run properly for a long time with a sub standard power supply. Buying cm extreme series (or any psu without an active pfc, better cooling, atleast 16-18 AWG wiring with professional finishing, soldering and good fans alongwith solid casing and main caps, electrolytic caps, pfc layer, MOVs- the list goes on) in this day of age is just plain silly. There were times that one was able to find Hipoxy resin between 2 electrolytic capacitors on the extreme series. Putting these powersupplies on a load tester will prove my point- something that real review sites like jonyguru and hardware secrets do and proved many psu's advertised specifications as WRONG.
Last edited:
why shouldn't i blame the card if its faulty?
the power port of my card was loose!!!!!!!!!that means THIS SPECIFIC PROBLEM(in my case at least) is CARD RELATED!!!!
again this PSU might be sub standard...but doesn't mean the card can never be faulty!
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
I did mention it before on my previous post, but let me repeat and I quote
Its not the question of whether its running or not, but for how long!!
I don't have knowledge like you but I know I thing for sure ( seems like you don't know it & don't read posts carefully but just try to prove your theory & point )
If a card gives issue within 3 days of buying then the card is faulty for sure.
& he wanted to know about his card not his PSU. I do some research before posting & don't advice people to increase my post count.
HD4850 just can not die using CM600W withing 3 days of buying.
He is getting probs with his gfx card when starting his comp.
I mean before loading the gfx card & psu with some games & the gfx cards power connector is not soldered properly.
Theories aside - I know this for sure CM600W is just sufficient to run HD4850 & I also know CM600W is rated at only 25C.
HD 4850 cosumes 41-110 W max
*archive.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=7&t=9354
or 47.9W to 109.6W
*www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-radeon-power,2122-6.html
Which I belive CM600W can easily deliver.
Now companies like CM is mentioning it's specs. What about those local brand PSUs. Many people runs their rigs with them with nearly 5-6 years. Also electrolytic capacitor based mobos from P3,P2 era is still running without prob.
I know people need advices ( which will give them mental relief also ) & a helping hand when they are in trouble coz it gives them frustration & mental pain.
Seems like you give out too much advices :
From :
*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1045710&posted=1#post1045710
BTW, Don't get me wrong - I've no intention to flame you
If a card gives issue within 3 days of buying then the card is faulty for sure.
& he wanted to know about his card not his PSU. I do some research before posting & don't advice people to increase my post count.
HD4850 just can not die using CM600W withing 3 days of buying.
He is getting probs with his gfx card when starting his comp.
I mean before loading the gfx card & psu with some games & the gfx cards power connector is not soldered properly.
Theories aside - I know this for sure CM600W is just sufficient to run HD4850 & I also know CM600W is rated at only 25C.
HD 4850 cosumes 41-110 W max
*archive.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=7&t=9354
or 47.9W to 109.6W
*www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-radeon-power,2122-6.html
Which I belive CM600W can easily deliver.
Now companies like CM is mentioning it's specs. What about those local brand PSUs. Many people runs their rigs with them with nearly 5-6 years. Also electrolytic capacitor based mobos from P3,P2 era is still running without prob.
I know people need advices ( which will give them mental relief also ) & a helping hand when they are in trouble coz it gives them frustration & mental pain.
Seems like you give out too much advices :
From :
*www.thinkdigit.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1045710&posted=1#post1045710
BTW, Don't get me wrong - I've no intention to flame you
Last edited:
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
^^ No worries mate. We are all on the same team .
Properties for a extreme series:
70% efficiency tested on operational temps of 25 degrees celcius when it comes to extreme series ONLY. A psu needs to be tested on operational temps of atleast minimum 40 based on current standards. The temps increases, the efficiency decreases. The efficiency decreases psu tries to pull more power. Due to the stress heat is generated. Heat is generated, voltage ripple goes for a toss. Heat kicks efficiency because of non japanese caps, non active pfc and a very bad fan.
Second:
*c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/17-171-013-03.jpg
DC output in volts is not mention- but only of AC. Something is fishy.
In spilt rails, there is a certain amount of DC power loss but its compensated by putting some really good caps- like in corsair hx620. Not in the case of cm extreme series.
Watt calculators do give a pretty good theoratical consumption rate and they are useful. But not many manufacturers do promise to deliver of what its advertised. Many unethical manufacturers have a habit of hiding the DC output. As mentioned before, when a psu converts AC into DC- there is a power loss- something which is inevitable unless something radically ground breaking comes up. But for the time being- lesser the power loss during AC- DC conversion, higher the efficiency- and more expensive. Operational temps do play an important role as well. An FSP Foxtron based VIP silver (bluish casing) itself has an active pfc. cm extreme series have most probably sleeve bearing fan- as someone pointed out in a heated discussion on another forum.
If you see it that way- you are paying for an outdated psu- passive pfc, in current standards- low end version, bad fan and no good caps. If you calculate it that way, cm extreme are a rip off. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think extreme series were from the good old amd athlon days. Extreme plus series are tested on 40 degrees celcius with same efficiency- so cm extreme plus 460w will be a better choice for a system with 4850. There is no established regulation which has guideliness on how to label a psu- so legally speaking every company can follow their own philisophy as they seem fit. This is why you find sub standard psu like huntkey circling around. There are ethical manufacturers though- but its more on their OEM rather then mainstream company.
.Properties for a extreme series:
70% efficiency tested on operational temps of 25 degrees celcius when it comes to extreme series ONLY. A psu needs to be tested on operational temps of atleast minimum 40 based on current standards. The temps increases, the efficiency decreases. The efficiency decreases psu tries to pull more power. Due to the stress heat is generated. Heat is generated, voltage ripple goes for a toss. Heat kicks efficiency because of non japanese caps, non active pfc and a very bad fan.
Second:
*c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/17-171-013-03.jpg
DC output in volts is not mention- but only of AC. Something is fishy
.In spilt rails, there is a certain amount of DC power loss but its compensated by putting some really good caps- like in corsair hx620. Not in the case of cm extreme series.
Watt calculators do give a pretty good theoratical consumption rate and they are useful. But not many manufacturers do promise to deliver of what its advertised. Many unethical manufacturers have a habit of hiding the DC output. As mentioned before, when a psu converts AC into DC- there is a power loss- something which is inevitable unless something radically ground breaking comes up. But for the time being- lesser the power loss during AC- DC conversion, higher the efficiency- and more expensive. Operational temps do play an important role as well. An FSP Foxtron based VIP silver (bluish casing) itself has an active pfc. cm extreme series have most probably sleeve bearing fan- as someone pointed out in a heated discussion on another forum.
If you see it that way- you are paying for an outdated psu- passive pfc, in current standards- low end version, bad fan and no good caps. If you calculate it that way, cm extreme are a rip off. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think extreme series were from the good old amd athlon days. Extreme plus series are tested on 40 degrees celcius with same efficiency- so cm extreme plus 460w will be a better choice for a system with 4850. There is no established regulation which has guideliness on how to label a psu- so legally speaking every company can follow their own philisophy as they seem fit. This is why you find sub standard psu like huntkey circling around. There are ethical manufacturers though- but its more on their OEM rather then mainstream company.
tkin
Back to school!!
Why, so much fuss with HD4850, does people think this card is made by god or something? Can't they expect that the card can be faulty? This thread was solved a longtime ago, the card is faulty.
BTW- My friend runs the following components on CM600w and its absolutely O.K.
1.XFX 8800GT OC(Alpha Dog)
2.2 SATA HDD and one PATA HDD
3.C2Q Q6600
4.MSI P35 Platinum Combo with 4GB RAM
5.2 DVD writers at the same time
6.2 Fans.
CM600w runs these flawlessly, looks like this is also a very underrated PSU, its absolutely fine, I got HX620 due to cabble clutter.
BTW- My friend runs the following components on CM600w and its absolutely O.K.
1.XFX 8800GT OC(Alpha Dog)
2.2 SATA HDD and one PATA HDD
3.C2Q Q6600
4.MSI P35 Platinum Combo with 4GB RAM
5.2 DVD writers at the same time
6.2 Fans.
CM600w runs these flawlessly, looks like this is also a very underrated PSU, its absolutely fine, I got HX620 due to cabble clutter.
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
So in other words, you mean to say that cm 600w extreme is flawless (oh yeah you did mention it)....therefore made by God??
Passive pfc, 70% effiency tested on operational temps of 25 degrees celcius. Current standard power supply must be tested on atleast 40- 50 degrees celicus.
Last edited:
tkin
Back to school!!
No, but listen, I live in Kolkata, it really gets hot in here in summer, the CM600w is working flawlessly with the said load for nearly two years now in a not so well ventilated case, if the specs were that important it would have died by now.
Specs are needed but they are not alaways that important. 70% efficiency means 70/100*600=420w, enough juice to run a good rig. CM makes good cases so why should their PSU be so bad, we all know Corsair RAMs are better that Kingston or Transcend, does it stop us from getting those RAMs?
I've plans to get a GTX280 in future, otherwise I would have got the CM600w for half the price of 620HX.
The Sorcerer
oh wow...Xenforo!!!
^^ Dude- let repeat it again in 1 single post. cm extreme 600w is not a 600w. They just labelled it. There is no international body which kept any standard way of labelling their power supply. Every psu manufacturer follow their own philisophy. It is because of this power supply manufacturer cannot be sued completly. Again- its a budget version of seventeam 500w. ITS REBADGED!!!!! If it so- why such a difference between extreme 600w and real power 600w?? Check out jhony guru reviews. Besides extreme series is seriously outdated. So much and so less? They literally opened it and its written on the PCB that its a seventeam 500w. On top of it, seventeam 500w has a copper heatsink- these have aluminimum.
What do you mean specs are not important?? You should get what you pay for and should know what you pay for!!! If you dont- people would be banging their system with iball psu and because of this many unethical dealers will follow more bad practices- more than parallel import or selling scrap. When people complain why sellers do this- its because the buyers are not aware and willing to accumulate knowledge. Dealers will say whatever they have as good- its their bread and butter after all.
Again- tkin. You need to research on google. Go to hardware secrets and read the anatomy of a power supply by gabriel. Its a fantastic article and its does show how good or bad a psu can be. Be aware its an exhaustive article so you need great amount of patience. But if you are still stubborn about not even making an effort to google, then arrogance diminishes wisedom. It is because of this we find companies like huntkey, zebronics and iball getting away. Brand is not important- check the OEM and its model number. Even a cm 650w extreme is a seventeam 500w which is exposed by nokytech.
What do you mean specs are not important?? You should get what you pay for and should know what you pay for!!! If you dont- people would be banging their system with iball psu and because of this many unethical dealers will follow more bad practices- more than parallel import or selling scrap. When people complain why sellers do this- its because the buyers are not aware and willing to accumulate knowledge. Dealers will say whatever they have as good- its their bread and butter after all.
Again- tkin. You need to research on google. Go to hardware secrets and read the anatomy of a power supply by gabriel. Its a fantastic article and its does show how good or bad a psu can be. Be aware its an exhaustive article so you need great amount of patience. But if you are still stubborn about not even making an effort to google, then arrogance diminishes wisedom. It is because of this we find companies like huntkey, zebronics and iball getting away. Brand is not important- check the OEM and its model number. Even a cm 650w extreme is a seventeam 500w which is exposed by nokytech.
Last edited:
- Status