to check for fungus, remove the lens caps and detach from camera ,hold it under a tubelight and slowly adjust the focus and zoom at different angles and see if you see any particles
Camera performance is pretty decent under autofocus.Did you perform a manual focus test on all 3 cameras, or did you manual focus on your 600D and autofocus on the 1200D and D5200? How does your 600D perform under autofocus?
Camera performance is pretty decent under autofocus.
I went to Canon service center today.
They told me there was a bit of fungus on both the lens (18-55 & 55-250) which they cleaned.
Will click some pics tomorrow & check the result.
Do check if the autofocus has a fine adjustment setting. This will allow you to make fine changes in case the autofocus is not as spot on as you would like
did they charge you,just curious
also how much did they charge if so
I didn't own any prime lens before this one.
Therefore honestly I cannot judge which one is better.
Btw STM was released nearly 3 weeks ago (~ 11th May 2015)
I read some reviews online which mentioned newer lens is slightly* (* it can be a perception) better than old one w.r.t focus & sharpness.
Anyway STM is mostly helpful for shooting videos... so no.. you are not losing out much!
enjoy the nifty fifty
The non STM 50mm IS II is (in)famous for needing calibration on many APS-C bodies. I hope this is better on the STM version. But mostly I wonder how this fares against Yongnuo 50mm 1.8 for Canon which is supposed to have beaten the non STM version in many areas.
Bought a Sony Alpha a6000 with the 16-50 kit lens and an additional 50mm F1.8 prime lens last week. Total damages 61k . This is my first pro camera. Thought of going mirrorless instead of DSLR due to the light weight and sleek looks. Didn't want to look like a cameraman. Getting used to the PASM modes.
Sony lenses are so damn costly than nikon and canon!
Many people report front/back focus issues when using the lens on APS-C bodies under PDAF. I don't know if the lens really has more issues than other lenses, or if it is just that it is a very popular lens so there are a lot of reports exacerbated by the very shallow depth-of-focus. The solution is to calibrate the lens to the particular body - either using microfocus adjustment (mentioned earlier in the thread) if your body offers it or by the service centre if it doesn't.
[MENTION=184724]kkn13[/MENTION], I had thought of Canon EOS-M first, but then read about the negative reviews reg. its autofocus, no EVF, battery life etc. Moreover, I didn't like the look of it. It doesn't have a comfortable hand grip for my large hands. Felt like a P&S. No inbuilt flash and the screen isn't tiltable. Sony a6000 on the other hand has got so many positive reviews throughout the web. The pictures I've taken in absolute darkness with the 50MMF1.8 prime turned out to be stunning without any flash at all. I don't have any plans on buying new lenses. Just the prime should do. Moreover I can use Canon and Nikon lenses in manual mode using adapters from ebay.
If you need to step back from the subject for it to focus then it means you are within the minimum focusing distance of the lens and you need to give it more room - or (less likely) at the closer distance a less sensitive autofocus point is trying to focus and keeps missing but when you step back a more sensitive autofocus point is coming into play and is able to focus, in which case you need to bring the more sensitive autofocus point into play even at the closer distance.do you mean the issues where it tries to focus beyond its length and makes a thuk-thuk sound until you step a bit away from the subject?
if so I have noticed this and if theres a solution pls do share
If you need to step back from the subject for it to focus then it means you are within the minimum focusing distance of the lens and you need to give it more room - or (less likely) at the closer distance a less sensitive autofocus point is trying to focus and keeps missing but when you step back a more sensitive autofocus point is coming into play and is able to focus, in which case you need to bring the more sensitive autofocus point into play even at the closer distance.
The front/back focus I'm referring to is when PDAF reports that the lens has focused on the desired point but when you see the picture taken you find that the lens has actually focused either to the front or the back of the desired point. This happens because of a calibration error between lens, PDAF sensor, and imaging sensor. The solution in this case is to have the lens calibrated to the body or to stick to CDAF (which obviously cannot front/back focus but has other deficiencies).
The A6000 is a great cam, way better than the EOS M and all.Oh that makes sense
I also owned a Sony Nex in the past for a while,used it as a point and shoot when I was a young noob,delightful camera but too slippery,small and tough to grip for my large hands so sold it to a cousin
btw do mirrorless have faster shutter speeds than a regular DSLR?