The Photography Thread

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pimpom

Cyborg Agent
swordfish said:
please share some of your shots..
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Here are a few. I have accounts at Imageshack and Photobucket, but I don't arrange my pics as galleries for viewing pleasure. I use them mostly for illustrating points in online discussions in forums and newsgroups.

The picture below is a single image pasted together from various shots. They are mostly snapshots rather than artistic ones. I have my 'artistic' shots in another hard disk which is not connected to my computer at the moment. It's 78KB, hope it doesn't take too long to load for those with slow connections.

*img233.imageshack.us/img233/9098/samples.jpg
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
@swordfish: thanks dude ..will try it out.

@pimpom: good work dude..

by the way next time when you post a photo please post the name of the camera and the settings used to take that shot. (you can get the ISO, shutter speed and all from the advanced properties of the image file ). It will help the others understand the settings used..
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
*farm4.static.flickr.com/3646/3581349616_31451eff04_d.jpg

got it ...thanks swordfish

This pic was taken during trekking in uttarkashi.
camera sony W150
full auto mode
iso 100
not sure about the f-stop value and shutter speed. will check the orignal and say .
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
swordfish said:
i like the lighening and butterfly shot most.. i tried many times to shot lighening but failed
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Capturing a lightning strike requires a combination of proper technique, patience and luck. There are two approaches:

First approach: During a thunderstorm, lightning often strikes more than once in rapid succession. If you press the button right after the first strike, you may catch the next one.

Second approach: Set up the camera on a tripod, use low ISO and a narrow aperture. Set the shutter speed to several seconds. Press the button and hope that a good strike occurs while the shutter is open.

With either method, unless you're extremely lucky, you will have to repeat the attempt several times before you get a good shot.
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
Correction to what I said earlier: Use low ISO and small aperture if you shoot during the daytime or if there's a lot of ground light. This is to avoid overexposing the ground objects. But if you shoot during the night, use a somewhat larger aperture and/or higher ISO.

Here's another shot. The B&W setting was unintentional. I'd set it to B&W for a previous shot and forgot to change it back to colour.

*img200.imageshack.us/img200/8156/lightning11sep08small.jpg

Camera: Panasonic DMC-FZ30
ISO 80, Aperture f/8, Shutter speed 15 seconds.
It was nighttime and the picture was underexposed. I increased the brightness a bit before posting it. ISO100 and aperture of f/4-5.6 would have been better.
 
sujoyp

sujoyp

Grand Master
seems like i have to get a semi-slr soon....with manual settings...my cam is not good enough for all this
 
Cool G5

Cool G5

Conversation Architect
rhitwick said:
hmmm......

In photography if u want take pictures in low light always use low ISO settings.
In low ISO settings the lense aperature increases and lets it enter more light (correct me if I'm wrong, experts).
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Photos always come good at the lowest ISO settings. The low the ISO the better but sometimes you also need to have a fast shutter speed or you will end up blurring.

Regarding your second statement, ISO does not changes the aperture or even the shutter speed for the matter of fact. ISO determines the sensitivity of the sensor to the light. When you increase the ISO the camera's sensor becomes more sensitive & vice-versa. You can compare ISO of digital camera to the speed of film roll. :smile:
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
Sujoyp,
Get an SLR if you can afford one, but there are many compact point-and-shoot (P&S) cameras with full manual controls.
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
@rhitwick and Cool G5:
You are both partly correct. Changing the ISO does not directly change aperture and shutter speed. But for the same lighting conditions, a change of ISO requires an opposite change in aperture and/or shutter speed settings. In auto-exposure mode, the camera's microprocessor makes the change automatically.
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
sujoyp said:
mine has some manual control...but never tried soo calmly...will check it today
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My BSNL broadband service has been down again since 5:30 this evening, so I can't browse around quickly. I'm posting this with my dial-up account which I've kept alive for times like this.

IIRC, your camera is a Sony T100, right? Sorry, but it doesn't have real manual controls. A camera with full manual controls will have Auto, P (Program), A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter priority) and M (full Manual) on the main control dial.

In Auto, your camera sets practically everything and you have very little control.

In P mode, you can set ISO, EV (image brightness), flash power. The camera takes care of the rest.

In A mode, you can control ISO, EV, flash and aperture. The camera sets the corresponding shutter speed.

In S mode, the roles of aperture and shutter speed are reversed.

In M mode, you control everything. The camera makes no attempt to set anything except focus.

If you want to learn photography, forget about scene modes, face recognition, smile recognition, etc. Those are gimmicks for people who just want to take casual snapshots. I'm not criticising such people; not everyone is seriously interested in photography. But those modes are not for people who want to learn more about photography.

Did you try taking a picture of the moon with spot focus and spot metering as I suggested earlier? Of course, the moon is less than half-full now and rises very late. You could try taking a shot during the day.
 
M

mysticjayant

Guest
@ pimpom...
i agree with u..not everyone is addicted to photography...n d camera manufacturers know dis..so dey keep on marketing their cams on petty things such as face recognition,MPs..and other stuff...

anyways...nice pics d lightening one ws cool...i shot a lightening but couldn't get grt results as u need a stable place to keep d cam for a long exposure shot,,mine was handheld...

for ppl intersted in photography...
this website gives very basic tutorials which are simple to follow...

*digital-photography-school.com/

and i couldn't post some of my pics here..pls be kind enuf to visit my flickr link n post some reviews...
*www.flickr.com/photos/mysticjayant

cheers,,,
 
izzikio_rage

izzikio_rage

Technomancer
while you can take most shots using the limited settings in a semi manual camera but for the more advanced ones ....long exposure ....blurred background etc ..you need good manual settings..
 
P

pimpom

Cyborg Agent
rhitwick said:
@pimpom and others, I've Canon SX10IS. Where am I standing?
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You have one of the top non-SLR cameras, congratulations and happy shooting!

Of course, no camera is perfect and it has some shortcomings, just like any other cam, whether SLR or P&S. E.g., the lens is not quite as good as a Panasonic-Leica lens, but it has lower noise than a Panasonic, and so on.

Re DSLR vs. P&S, it's a never-ending debate and some fanboys on either side make blind exaggerated claims. The fact is that both P&Ses and SLRs have advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantages of a DSLR are low noise and fast reaction (boot-up, focusing & metering).

The main advantages of a P&S are compact size, low cost and wide zoom range in some models.

A DSLR has something else that can be either an advantage or a disadvantage depending on the user. It has a wide range of lenses to choose from, but good SLR lenses are bulky and expensive, and there's the inconvenience of having to change lenses under different shooting conditions. There's also the very real danger of getting dust on the sensor and the rest of the mechanism while changing lenses.

Therefore, it is not wise to automatically assume that a DSLR is always better than a P&S.

As far as picture quality is concerned, a DSLR can produce better images than a P&S, but ONLY if it is fitted with good lenses AND it is used properly by a skilled photographer. Besides, a DSLR photo at default settings often look drab and dull compared to those from a good P&S. They often need post-processing with an image processing software.

In the end, it is the photographer, not the camera, that makes a good p[hoto.
 
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