Understanding camera settings...
sujoyp
Grand Master
I have tried sharpness,saturation and over all color tone in DSLR ....
Sharpness a notch up increases noise but in day time pic looks much better...actually manual setting is there to play
try it
Saturation has to be increased...default pic looks soo dull in my cam
color tone I set to vivid sometime and natural mostly ...normal is again very dull in my cam
Sharpness a notch up increases noise but in day time pic looks much better...actually manual setting is there to play
try itSaturation has to be increased...default pic looks soo dull in my cam
color tone I set to vivid sometime and natural mostly ...normal is again very dull in my cam
OP
nac
Aspiring Novelist
I came here to ask a doubt, but I see my previous post...
I did try with presets and posted (forgot that I said I will post here) in photography thread. The butterfly/bee shots are some of them....
Ok... Here is what I came to this thread today.
I received one the photos I took a week ago with D90.
What a quality man... I was wondering why I am not getting sharp eye even when I tried to click eye alone (with my SX130). But with D90, I am seeing much cleaner, sharper eyes that too from a group photo.
Ok here is my doubt...
I checked the exif, I screwed up the metering settings. Spot metering for group photograph. First mistake...
I didn't get this... LIGHT SOURCE: SHUTTER PRIORITY; EXPOSURE PROGRAM: APERTURE PRIORITY.
I understand I was shooting in aperture priority but how the light source works here. Was there any setting I could have make it work with exposure program?
I did try with presets and posted (forgot that I said I will post here) in photography thread. The butterfly/bee shots are some of them....
Ok... Here is what I came to this thread today.
I received one the photos I took a week ago with D90.
What a quality man... I was wondering why I am not getting sharp eye even when I tried to click eye alone (with my SX130). But with D90, I am seeing much cleaner, sharper eyes that too from a group photo.Ok here is my doubt...
I checked the exif, I screwed up the metering settings. Spot metering for group photograph. First mistake...
I didn't get this... LIGHT SOURCE: SHUTTER PRIORITY; EXPOSURE PROGRAM: APERTURE PRIORITY.
I understand I was shooting in aperture priority but how the light source works here. Was there any setting I could have make it work with exposure program?
sujoyp
Grand Master
I actually didnt understand what u want to know but let me tell u a simple way
1. In shutter priority u set the shutter speed and through the meter of camera , camera decides what aperture to select...if the max aperture is reached then it will increase the ISO
2. In aperture priority u select the aperture and the camera meter decides how much shutter speed can be given ....but now the shutter speed can go down to such that u can not hand hold the shot
in dark places or indoors I usually use shutter priority and set it to 1/30-1/50 so that even if my ISO increases my shot do not get blurred.
now metering u know...spot,center and matrix
spot - it will check the light of a perticular spot only
center - it will check the lightning in the middle of the frame
matrix - it will take the whole frame into consideration and check the average light....this usually make the sky white
hope ur question is answered
1. In shutter priority u set the shutter speed and through the meter of camera , camera decides what aperture to select...if the max aperture is reached then it will increase the ISO
2. In aperture priority u select the aperture and the camera meter decides how much shutter speed can be given ....but now the shutter speed can go down to such that u can not hand hold the shot
in dark places or indoors I usually use shutter priority and set it to 1/30-1/50 so that even if my ISO increases my shot do not get blurred.
now metering u know...spot,center and matrix
spot - it will check the light of a perticular spot only
center - it will check the lightning in the middle of the frame
matrix - it will take the whole frame into consideration and check the average light....this usually make the sky white
hope ur question is answered
OP
nac
Aspiring Novelist
hope ur question is answered
Actually NO
Sorry for making you confused...
I better post the EXIF for better understanding my query..
*img35.imageshack.us/img35/3415/54625648.jpg
I don't understand the one marked in RED. How I can control it?
kool
Cyborg Agent
hey guys,.
I'm going GOA next week , want to know basic settings for best clicks for SX-150. Mainly i want to click : beach side pics, Portrait mode of my friend with focus on face only and blurred image of background.
Also tell me, how to take VIVID color of any pics? In my camera SUPER VIVID is only option. Is there any way to take VIVID only ?
I'm going GOA next week , want to know basic settings for best clicks for SX-150. Mainly i want to click : beach side pics, Portrait mode of my friend with focus on face only and blurred image of background.
Also tell me, how to take VIVID color of any pics? In my camera SUPER VIVID is only option. Is there any way to take VIVID only ?
can anyone tell me how to take HDR pics if the feature is not built in camera?
My Canon 600D does not have it.
But I find it essential when the background is very bright or backlit.
What I understand is I can use auto exposure bracketing to take the same shots in different exposures.
But, how do I combine those? Which software to use? Anything free available?
Sujoy, in Canon 600D there are 4 metering modes -
Evaluative - same as matrix.
Partial - Not sure about this.
Center -
Spot -
My Canon 600D does not have it.
But I find it essential when the background is very bright or backlit.
What I understand is I can use auto exposure bracketing to take the same shots in different exposures.
But, how do I combine those? Which software to use? Anything free available?
I actually didnt understand what u want to know but let me tell u a simple way
1. In shutter priority u set the shutter speed and through the meter of camera , camera decides what aperture to select...if the max aperture is reached then it will increase the ISO
2. In aperture priority u select the aperture and the camera meter decides how much shutter speed can be given ....but now the shutter speed can go down to such that u can not hand hold the shot
in dark places or indoors I usually use shutter priority and set it to 1/30-1/50 so that even if my ISO increases my shot do not get blurred.
now metering u know...spot,center and matrix
spot - it will check the light of a perticular spot only
center - it will check the lightning in the middle of the frame
matrix - it will take the whole frame into consideration and check the average light....this usually make the sky white
hope ur question is answered
Sujoy, in Canon 600D there are 4 metering modes -
Evaluative - same as matrix.
Partial - Not sure about this.
Center -
Spot -
raja manuel
In the zone
You can find basic info on the different metering modes for 600D here, with sample pics for evaluative vs. partial:
Choosing an Exposure Metering Mode on a Canon EOS Rebel T3 Series Camera - For Dummies
Basically, Partial metering measures 9% of viewfinder area while spot measures 4%
Choosing an Exposure Metering Mode on a Canon EOS Rebel T3 Series Camera - For Dummies
Basically, Partial metering measures 9% of viewfinder area while spot measures 4%
raja manuel
In the zone
It is fixed on the central 9%. Only Evaluative Metering gives weight to the chosen AF point. Centre Weighted Average only gives additional weight to the centre, unlike Partial which is purely the 9% formed between the central AF points. This link
Canon DLC: Article: Quick Tip: Photographing Snow
provides a veiwfinder simulation tool which explains how each metering mode works (click on 'here are some of the common ones' to make it active). As can be seen, there is a very big difference in the area considered for metering between Centre Weighted Average and Partial.
Canon DLC: Article: Quick Tip: Photographing Snow
provides a veiwfinder simulation tool which explains how each metering mode works (click on 'here are some of the common ones' to make it active). As can be seen, there is a very big difference in the area considered for metering between Centre Weighted Average and Partial.
OP
nac
Aspiring Novelist
When I was reading these topics (white balance and metering) I am little confused. I read the usage of grey/white card for manual white balance and exposure settings.
I understand that professionals use 18% grey card for exposure and there was no contrary in it when reading. But when I was reading about white balance, in one place the author said, using white card for custom white balance setting and in another they say, grey card for custom wb settings. I am confused here... For WB is it white or grey card??? If it's grey card, what's the percentage of the darkness of the grey card. In video, the said grey card and it isn't as dark as 18% grey card which they use for exposure. It almost looks like white (I would taken it as white, if they didn't say it grey)
As far as my camera is concern, user manual says point the camera to white and fill the frame to set custom WB.
I understand that professionals use 18% grey card for exposure and there was no contrary in it when reading. But when I was reading about white balance, in one place the author said, using white card for custom white balance setting and in another they say, grey card for custom wb settings. I am confused here... For WB is it white or grey card??? If it's grey card, what's the percentage of the darkness of the grey card. In video, the said grey card and it isn't as dark as 18% grey card which they use for exposure. It almost looks like white (I would taken it as white, if they didn't say it grey)
As far as my camera is concern, user manual says point the camera to white and fill the frame to set custom WB.