Samarth 619
Modrator @ Xbhp Biking
Guys,
I was sent a PM by a member regarding modifying a Pulsar 180 UG3. I by mistake, wrote a full letter on it.
So, just to share the knowledge, let me post a copy of it here, for everyone's benefit.
I request you to go through it if you think it might help.
Brother, as of now, I ride a Duke 390 and have sold the Pulsar 208cc. But I'll recollect and let you know all I can remember...
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/IMG_4057%202048x1361_zpsdtggpqe7.jpg
See, if you know the basic engine structure, then you can see that, cc is determined by two things:- Bore & Stroke values.
Bore means the diameter of the engine piston.
Stroke means the travel of the piston from upmost to downmost position.
Like a cylinder's formula, we calculate cc (Cubic centimetres) by this formula.
cc = (bore/2)^2 x 22/7 x Stroke.
Which is basically, cylinder's volume = pi x R square x h.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/150620122900_1_zpsnzpgcnys.jpg
What I did was I put in an enlarged engine block and piston from another source, thus increasing bore, so that made my bike 208cc. I had also put in a free flow exhaust to make the scavenging faster, and also a K&N air filter to make breathing faster.
The thing with exhaust is that you must choose a good exhaust from a reputed brand, which makes specially for your bike.
Remember:- exhaust does scavenging which is cleaning of exhaust gases as per 4 stroke cycles. Any simple/local Rs. 1000 exhaust will not do a good job... Get a good one, specifically prescribed for your bike.
For example, an exhaust meant for Pulsar 135 won't do a good job on your bike. Probably, a Pulsar 200 DTSi aftermarket might do a good job.
Secondly, I got my Block piston kit from a reputed seller who has now closed his shop.
Your best option now is to fit in a Pulsar 220 Block + Piston kit, which is a direct fit but compulsorily, it requires some more minor components, like cam chain tensioner, head gaskets, block gaskets, etc.
That will make your bike 200cc (not 220cc because Pulsar 220 has a higher stroke value which is not reasonably possible on your bike for now.)
With this, you will also do great if you replace some of the components of the head, with those from P220, like the high lift camshaft.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/130720123155_zpsyky1w5et.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/140720123167_zps4tdyadij.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/130720123158_zpsfyhqewwc.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/140720123166_zpsgxxoiaiw.jpg
After this mod, you'll have to put new engine oil, but remember to ride slow for 500 kms and then increase speed slowly but for short durations at one time. After 500 kms, change oil and continue the run in.
Failure to do the above properly may cause even engine seizure, which means piston and block change again. So, be careful. Yes, it did happen to me.
Thirdly, the K&N RC1060 did the biggest performance gain I ever saw on my bike, it was that huge!! It was like redlining like hell! But I had put the filter directly on the carburetor, by first removing its stock airbox and stock filter. This is risky due to dust, pollution and rains.
So, my advice would be that you get a custom Airbox done. Make one at your home, which has a high flow basic cloth on its side openings and then the filter inside this, so that too much dust pressure is not on the filter. Otherwise, the bike will not endure beyond 1-2 years. The airbox is necessary and it comes in every vehicle.... Even K&N company never prescribed you run it without airbox.
Also, when you apply a high flow air filter, you must also use a high flow main jet in carburetor so that Air:Fuel Ratio is maintained. Not following AFR ratio will make your bike extremely hot while operation, and it decreases engine life in the long run.
For a typical Pulsar 180 UG3, a main jet from Karizma, costing about Rs. 153 should do well for K&N filter. Karizma's main jet size is #125, compared to #117.5 of your stock Pulsar 180. Of course, the carburetor can be tuned later on to fine tune it as per the right AFR, where CO2 is the maximum (refer to my AFR chart posted somewhere on Digit itself). I've written a lot about this somewhere on Digit forum itself....
Or you can just get BA2201 and use it with your stock airbox, with stock carburetor main jet, basically without modifying anything, but this will give only slight performance gain. A very slight gain only.
Oh, and the Pulsar 220 rear set footpegs are a direct fit on your bike, only the exhaust and the saree guard won't fit.
So, better you get a free flow aftermarket exhaust made for the now defunct Pulsar 200 DTSi (this bike came in 2007 or 08 or so, and looks somewhat like a Pulsar 180 only).
But no matter if you make 16 bhp or 20 bhp, the top speed won't increase much, because your stock gears will remain the same. If top speed is what you're after, its better to get another bike, or to overgear your existing bike by using aftermarket rear sprocket with lesser number of teeth than 43 (43 teeth supplied by Bajaj in your bike), or an aftermarket front sprocket with more teeth than 15, but that is rare.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/Photo026_zpszexmbh1e.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/Photo441_zpsdhzeelef.jpg
But for top speed, its better to get another bike because the rest of the components like frame, brakes, tyres, etc. aren't ready for just about any speed, so who knows how its risky? The best I did on my Pulsar 208, when it had a custom rear sprocket was 131 kmph, meter displayed. But it was hugely unstable at that speed and I did feel it might fishtail and crash or so.
In short, when your power increases, you will find noticeable increase in acceleration (pickup), and 0-60 and 0-100 timings, but not so much on top end, because internal gearing is the same, and your bike will still not cross 10,000 rpm (electronically).
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123210_zpsoilntj7y.jpg
Modification is a risk. If you still go all out and modify everything as I mentioned above, your bike should be almost as capable as a 220-240cc stock bike...
But modifications are risky, so you should do it only if you're sure of it, and you can give your time and money to it. Having a genuine mechanic with good knowledge can help a lot.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123206_zpsewqetl9m.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123212_zpszusejruu.jpg
The reason why you modify is because, its your bike, not a run of the mill, any man's copycat bike.
That is the factor why we modify.
Take care. Do let me know how it panned out.
Best Regards,
Samarth Singh.
NOTE: I will add more photos, as I upload them to my account. They're with me for years now, but not online as yet.
All photos are my own. Please don't copy/ claim the same. Thank you.
I was sent a PM by a member regarding modifying a Pulsar 180 UG3. I by mistake, wrote a full letter on it.
So, just to share the knowledge, let me post a copy of it here, for everyone's benefit.I request you to go through it if you think it might help.
Brother, as of now, I ride a Duke 390 and have sold the Pulsar 208cc. But I'll recollect and let you know all I can remember...
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/IMG_4057%202048x1361_zpsdtggpqe7.jpg
See, if you know the basic engine structure, then you can see that, cc is determined by two things:- Bore & Stroke values.
Bore means the diameter of the engine piston.
Stroke means the travel of the piston from upmost to downmost position.
Like a cylinder's formula, we calculate cc (Cubic centimetres) by this formula.
cc = (bore/2)^2 x 22/7 x Stroke.
Which is basically, cylinder's volume = pi x R square x h.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/150620122900_1_zpsnzpgcnys.jpg
What I did was I put in an enlarged engine block and piston from another source, thus increasing bore, so that made my bike 208cc. I had also put in a free flow exhaust to make the scavenging faster, and also a K&N air filter to make breathing faster.
The thing with exhaust is that you must choose a good exhaust from a reputed brand, which makes specially for your bike.
Remember:- exhaust does scavenging which is cleaning of exhaust gases as per 4 stroke cycles. Any simple/local Rs. 1000 exhaust will not do a good job... Get a good one, specifically prescribed for your bike.
For example, an exhaust meant for Pulsar 135 won't do a good job on your bike. Probably, a Pulsar 200 DTSi aftermarket might do a good job.
Secondly, I got my Block piston kit from a reputed seller who has now closed his shop.
Your best option now is to fit in a Pulsar 220 Block + Piston kit, which is a direct fit but compulsorily, it requires some more minor components, like cam chain tensioner, head gaskets, block gaskets, etc.
That will make your bike 200cc (not 220cc because Pulsar 220 has a higher stroke value which is not reasonably possible on your bike for now.)
With this, you will also do great if you replace some of the components of the head, with those from P220, like the high lift camshaft.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/130720123155_zpsyky1w5et.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/140720123167_zps4tdyadij.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/130720123158_zpsfyhqewwc.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/140720123166_zpsgxxoiaiw.jpg
After this mod, you'll have to put new engine oil, but remember to ride slow for 500 kms and then increase speed slowly but for short durations at one time. After 500 kms, change oil and continue the run in.
Failure to do the above properly may cause even engine seizure, which means piston and block change again. So, be careful. Yes, it did happen to me.
Thirdly, the K&N RC1060 did the biggest performance gain I ever saw on my bike, it was that huge!! It was like redlining like hell! But I had put the filter directly on the carburetor, by first removing its stock airbox and stock filter. This is risky due to dust, pollution and rains.
So, my advice would be that you get a custom Airbox done. Make one at your home, which has a high flow basic cloth on its side openings and then the filter inside this, so that too much dust pressure is not on the filter. Otherwise, the bike will not endure beyond 1-2 years. The airbox is necessary and it comes in every vehicle.... Even K&N company never prescribed you run it without airbox.
Also, when you apply a high flow air filter, you must also use a high flow main jet in carburetor so that Air:Fuel Ratio is maintained. Not following AFR ratio will make your bike extremely hot while operation, and it decreases engine life in the long run.
For a typical Pulsar 180 UG3, a main jet from Karizma, costing about Rs. 153 should do well for K&N filter. Karizma's main jet size is #125, compared to #117.5 of your stock Pulsar 180. Of course, the carburetor can be tuned later on to fine tune it as per the right AFR, where CO2 is the maximum (refer to my AFR chart posted somewhere on Digit itself). I've written a lot about this somewhere on Digit forum itself....
Or you can just get BA2201 and use it with your stock airbox, with stock carburetor main jet, basically without modifying anything, but this will give only slight performance gain. A very slight gain only.
Oh, and the Pulsar 220 rear set footpegs are a direct fit on your bike, only the exhaust and the saree guard won't fit.
So, better you get a free flow aftermarket exhaust made for the now defunct Pulsar 200 DTSi (this bike came in 2007 or 08 or so, and looks somewhat like a Pulsar 180 only).
But no matter if you make 16 bhp or 20 bhp, the top speed won't increase much, because your stock gears will remain the same. If top speed is what you're after, its better to get another bike, or to overgear your existing bike by using aftermarket rear sprocket with lesser number of teeth than 43 (43 teeth supplied by Bajaj in your bike), or an aftermarket front sprocket with more teeth than 15, but that is rare.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/Photo026_zpszexmbh1e.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/Photo441_zpsdhzeelef.jpg
But for top speed, its better to get another bike because the rest of the components like frame, brakes, tyres, etc. aren't ready for just about any speed, so who knows how its risky? The best I did on my Pulsar 208, when it had a custom rear sprocket was 131 kmph, meter displayed. But it was hugely unstable at that speed and I did feel it might fishtail and crash or so.
In short, when your power increases, you will find noticeable increase in acceleration (pickup), and 0-60 and 0-100 timings, but not so much on top end, because internal gearing is the same, and your bike will still not cross 10,000 rpm (electronically).
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123210_zpsoilntj7y.jpg
Modification is a risk. If you still go all out and modify everything as I mentioned above, your bike should be almost as capable as a 220-240cc stock bike...
But modifications are risky, so you should do it only if you're sure of it, and you can give your time and money to it. Having a genuine mechanic with good knowledge can help a lot.
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123206_zpsewqetl9m.jpg
*i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag255/samarth619/190720123212_zpszusejruu.jpg
The reason why you modify is because, its your bike, not a run of the mill, any man's copycat bike.
That is the factor why we modify.
Take care. Do let me know how it panned out.
Best Regards,
Samarth Singh.
NOTE: I will add more photos, as I upload them to my account. They're with me for years now, but not online as yet.
All photos are my own. Please don't copy/ claim the same. Thank you.
