try to avoid 1 ton AC as it will pretty frequently go ON & OFF and thus incurred more electricity bill. At least have a 1.5 ton so that the set temp remains for a long time before it begins next restart.
Also consider the room size, if roof of the room is directly exposed to sunlight throughout the day, how many windows etc. In simple word LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP.
Room Size (Sq ft) | AC Tonnage |
< 90 sq ft | 0.8 ton |
90 -125
| 1 ton |
125-200 | 1.5 ton |
>200 (Sq ft) | 2 ton |
INVERTER AC ; High initial cost, Low on ebill. An inverter model will use roughly 40% less power than a 5-Star non-inverter model.
NON INVERTER :Low on initial cost, moderate to high e bill.
Understand these jargons:
Bureau of Energy Efficiency (BEE)
The greater the number of stars on the label, higher the appliance Energy Efficiency : EE and lower its electricity consumption.
EER : Energy Efficiency Ratio= (Watt/Watt)=(Cooling Capacity in WATTS/POWER CONSUMPTION in WATTS)
higher the EER number better is its efficiency lower is the e bill and more costly it’s going to be.
Cooling Capacity (in Watts) | Power Consumption (in Watts) | EER Ratio (in Watts) |
6012 | 1666 | 3.61 |
REFRIGERANT should be 410A or R32.
CFM
CUBIC FOOT PER METER: The power of pushing the air. Upto what distance the AC is capable of pushing the air. Should be from the wall of installation to its opposite wall. If it is only halfway then your room is likely to take more time to get cooled and you have to add and extra fan to circulate the air.
Initial Amperage: The amount of current required for the first time operation.
RUNNING Ampearge : The amount of current required while it is under operation
PIPE : should at all cost be COPPER
please rectify if i have written anything wrong