Hey guys, its been quite a time since i posted here. What to do, High school voes.
Recently i have been writing articles on various fields in photography, and would like to share with you all.
Please give your views on it, and is there any section ( though i could not find it ) where digit could publish it?
Tips on Macro Photography
1. Make sure that your subject is perfect and just perfect.
When you are going to focus on such close distances, every tiny and minute imperfection will be clear to the viewer, in turn serving as a distraction and a spoilsport. Make sure whatever you are going to photograph, say a flower, doesn’t have broken petals, or has too much dirt on it, or if it’s a butterfly, it shouldn’t have any damaged wings and stuff so that when you photograph and take it on your computer, you’ll have a big smile on your face.
2. Get up early.
Many of you are going to snort at this idea, but yeah, if you are game for macro photography, it's something you should get used to doing. Some subjects tend to be less active in the morning, especially when it's still a little chilly, making them easier to photograph and plants, flowers and other foliage are less likely to have had a bite taken out of them early on, too. Whereas early morning means dew drops which serve as an excellent macro subject.
3. Try Backlighting
Low, morning light makes it easier to backlight your subjects which can give your macro shots an interesting twist. Objects which are slightly translucent such as leaves, flower petals and butterfly wings look really good when light shines through them from the back. Keep a close eye on your shots though as the light levels can fool your camera into thinking the scene's too bright and it will underexpose the shot. If you do have problems just use exposure compensation to fix it.
4. Switch To Manual Focus
When working close to a subject autofocus tends to end up searching backwards and forwards for something to focus on. Eventually it may focus on the right point but it's much quicker to switch over to manual where you'll be able to focus more precisely. If you're not used to using manual focus it can take a little bit of practice but if you try shooting flowers, fungi and other objects which are less likely to fly or run off, you don't have to rush so can take your time in getting your focusing spot-on. Then, once you're used to working manually, move on to more tricky subjects such as insects and other wildlife.
5. Try Pre-Focusing
Some macro subjects such as insects move fast and scare easily so pre-focusing your lens before they come into frame can increase your chances of capturing a good shot. Find something that's of a similar size of your subject and position it the same distance away as your subject will be when it lands.
7. Avoid Shake
Camera shake is more noticeable when working close to your subject so always use a tripod. If you have one, use a remote release to fire the shutter button so you don't have to touch the camera or if you don't have one, use the camera's self-timer or your Smart Device if you have a camera that'll allow you to control it this way. Making sure your image stabilisation is on and using quicker shutter speeds, which you can get by switching to a higher ISO if you're working in low light, will help keep movement to a minimum but it's still best to fasten your camera to a tripod.
8. Windy Days Are Your Enemy
As already mentioned, any movement in the frame is exaggerated when working at such close focusing distances so what may seem like a small breeze to you can look like a strong, winter gale blowing through your image.
You can hold your subject in place with plamps etc. or if you're patient, just wait for the wind to stop blowing. You can also try and shelter the plant you're photographing with a make-shift shield. Card works well but if you're out in the field try using your camera bag or even your own body to shield your subject from the wind. Also, using a slightly quicker shutter speed will freeze motion but this isn't always possible, especially when working in darker locations such as woods.
9. Get In Close Then Add Some Space
By isolating part of a flower, insect or leaf you can create strong, abstract shots. So find detail that interests you and really zoom in close, filling the frame with striking shapes and interesting patterns.
Don't forget to try the opposite too so your subject has some space to 'breath'. Why? Well it can help give your image context as well as create a sense of scale in your shot. Do keep your background simple if you do this though as you don't want it to distract from your main subject.
10. Light Your Shot Well
Where possible, try to use natural light, however there are times when this isn't possible such as working in the woods where light levels are lower or when you're working with subjects that move quickly.
Rather than using your camera's built-in flash which is harsh and often too direct, try using a ring flash which can give a more even spread of light. Watch out for overexposed 'hotspots' appearing on your subject and when using natural light, make sure your own shadow isn't caught in-frame. You may also need to use a reflector to bounce much needed light into dark areas of the shot. You can buy reflectors but one made from a piece of card and silver foil can work just as well.
Ishan Pathak
Recently i have been writing articles on various fields in photography, and would like to share with you all.
Please give your views on it, and is there any section ( though i could not find it ) where digit could publish it?
Tips on Macro Photography
1. Make sure that your subject is perfect and just perfect.
When you are going to focus on such close distances, every tiny and minute imperfection will be clear to the viewer, in turn serving as a distraction and a spoilsport. Make sure whatever you are going to photograph, say a flower, doesn’t have broken petals, or has too much dirt on it, or if it’s a butterfly, it shouldn’t have any damaged wings and stuff so that when you photograph and take it on your computer, you’ll have a big smile on your face.
2. Get up early.
Many of you are going to snort at this idea, but yeah, if you are game for macro photography, it's something you should get used to doing. Some subjects tend to be less active in the morning, especially when it's still a little chilly, making them easier to photograph and plants, flowers and other foliage are less likely to have had a bite taken out of them early on, too. Whereas early morning means dew drops which serve as an excellent macro subject.
3. Try Backlighting
Low, morning light makes it easier to backlight your subjects which can give your macro shots an interesting twist. Objects which are slightly translucent such as leaves, flower petals and butterfly wings look really good when light shines through them from the back. Keep a close eye on your shots though as the light levels can fool your camera into thinking the scene's too bright and it will underexpose the shot. If you do have problems just use exposure compensation to fix it.
4. Switch To Manual Focus
When working close to a subject autofocus tends to end up searching backwards and forwards for something to focus on. Eventually it may focus on the right point but it's much quicker to switch over to manual where you'll be able to focus more precisely. If you're not used to using manual focus it can take a little bit of practice but if you try shooting flowers, fungi and other objects which are less likely to fly or run off, you don't have to rush so can take your time in getting your focusing spot-on. Then, once you're used to working manually, move on to more tricky subjects such as insects and other wildlife.
5. Try Pre-Focusing
Some macro subjects such as insects move fast and scare easily so pre-focusing your lens before they come into frame can increase your chances of capturing a good shot. Find something that's of a similar size of your subject and position it the same distance away as your subject will be when it lands.
7. Avoid Shake
Camera shake is more noticeable when working close to your subject so always use a tripod. If you have one, use a remote release to fire the shutter button so you don't have to touch the camera or if you don't have one, use the camera's self-timer or your Smart Device if you have a camera that'll allow you to control it this way. Making sure your image stabilisation is on and using quicker shutter speeds, which you can get by switching to a higher ISO if you're working in low light, will help keep movement to a minimum but it's still best to fasten your camera to a tripod.
8. Windy Days Are Your Enemy
As already mentioned, any movement in the frame is exaggerated when working at such close focusing distances so what may seem like a small breeze to you can look like a strong, winter gale blowing through your image.
You can hold your subject in place with plamps etc. or if you're patient, just wait for the wind to stop blowing. You can also try and shelter the plant you're photographing with a make-shift shield. Card works well but if you're out in the field try using your camera bag or even your own body to shield your subject from the wind. Also, using a slightly quicker shutter speed will freeze motion but this isn't always possible, especially when working in darker locations such as woods.
9. Get In Close Then Add Some Space
By isolating part of a flower, insect or leaf you can create strong, abstract shots. So find detail that interests you and really zoom in close, filling the frame with striking shapes and interesting patterns.
Don't forget to try the opposite too so your subject has some space to 'breath'. Why? Well it can help give your image context as well as create a sense of scale in your shot. Do keep your background simple if you do this though as you don't want it to distract from your main subject.
10. Light Your Shot Well
Where possible, try to use natural light, however there are times when this isn't possible such as working in the woods where light levels are lower or when you're working with subjects that move quickly.
Rather than using your camera's built-in flash which is harsh and often too direct, try using a ring flash which can give a more even spread of light. Watch out for overexposed 'hotspots' appearing on your subject and when using natural light, make sure your own shadow isn't caught in-frame. You may also need to use a reflector to bounce much needed light into dark areas of the shot. You can buy reflectors but one made from a piece of card and silver foil can work just as well.
Ishan Pathak
