Camera talk...

sujoyp

Grand Master
hmm by looking at my pic I can say that maybe my camera whitebalance was more towards blue...and by using yellow diffuser it became more natural.
 
OP
nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Today, I was asked if I am interested to shoot a wedding as an "extra" photographer. I said YES, but it falls on weekday. That's a bummer. I don't even know if it's a paid job and more over it's outta town job. I don't know if I should take a leave from work and go to the wedding to get experience or pass the opportunity. If the job don't pay any money, it would be like I spend to work. In other hand it would be a nice learning experience. It's a tough decision to make.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
Yaah its tough..u decide if u ever want to become wedding photographer in future then this will be good opportunity to learn..if thats not in ur list I dont think this will be good..u decide..

Sent from my E5563 using Tapatalk
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Yeah, I am interested but not as a full time job. During weekends when I am free. Of course, for some compensation.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
if you want to persue this in future then you can take up this job for now...this experience will surely help..money will come only after experience
 
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raja manuel

In the zone
I think the decision would depend on how good the main photographer is, and what the expectations of the wedding party are. I've seen some pretty awful wedding photographers and photograph. It wouldn't be worth your while to take a day off from work and spend to assist someone who knows less than you, or just 10-20% more than you. If the person is really good, though, it can be a very valuable experience and a good education is worth spending for.
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Made the call, I am going. :)

I am asked to shoot the wedding from different perspective, kinda shooting from side line. It will be like a documentary style, no interaction, no posing. Most likely I will be a 3rd photographer, others will do traditional/candid I assume. I was thinking of shooting with just one lens preferably a prime (85 f/1.8 or 100 f/2.8), now I am not sure. My guess is I would be at least 15-20' away from the bride/groom, would I be able to tell a story with one of these lens or should I go for 50 f/1.4 (Point to note, I won't be close). I am not interested in zoom lens, but if that's the one which is suitable for this work, I will go with that option. In that case, probably I would end up with kit lens. Not sure about the body, can be an APS C or FF.

I started doing some research, I am not sure if I will be needing an external flash considering the distance I will be working from.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
Thats the problem with lack of experience...I cant suggest anything for sure...maybe you should have a prime and a zoom togather with you...if full frame then a 85mm will help you most to get shots from far ..but will there be so much space so you can shoot from a distance...I think in marriges everyone just be around couple and shooting from bit far is difficult.
If you use zoom then definitely use flash too with diffuser. Tell us what you decided :)
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Thats the problem with lack of experience..
I think in marriges everyone just be around couple and shooting from bit far is difficult.
Tell us what you decided :)
:D
Yeah, that's another concern.
Yeah, sure. I asked if I can borrow the camera coming weekend to try and get to know about it. When I do that, I will know what's the camera and lens I am getting.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
Flickr is back with an About page, its fun to watch the page and has nice details to show off :D 129k views:bananana:

*preview.ibb.co/iFxmVv/Flickr.jpg
bb code img
 
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raja manuel

In the zone
Can you scout the location in advance, or gather any details about it? Bouncing flash can be difficult if the ceiling is very high/uneven/not white. Indoors or outdoors, day/night. Also, as third photographer will you be stuck just photographing guests? In that case, a zoom would definitely be good, something like a 15-85 mm.
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Can you scout the location in advance, or gather any details about it? Bouncing flash can be difficult if the ceiling is very high/uneven/not white. Indoors or outdoors, day/night. Also, as third photographer will you be stuck just photographing guests? In that case, a zoom would definitely be good, something like a 15-85 mm.
I can go few hours in advance and scout the location but not days/weeks before the wedding. As I said, wedding is not in my town. Typically, marriage hall's ceilings are higher than house ceiling. So minimum about 15' high if it's one floor, if they have balcony like thing, then the height would be much higher. Mostly indoors I assume. Wedding will be in day time, there is a reception/engagement like function the day before and that will be a night time. I am sure I will be shooting bride and groom, not just guests.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
I think you should keep a zoom lens as a backup...we never know what comes up and you have no space to move forward or backward.
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Using a different focal length gives different perspective, is that what the photographer said/meant and I over complicated the term?

They will bring all the lenses I assume, whether they use them or not. So the lenses will be there, and I don't have to worry about that. If I need, I can grab one from the bag. Just that choice is very less, for FF 24-105 and for crop 18-135/18-55.
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
@nac no prime lens ?? if this is the choice I have to make then 18-135 (its canon 18-135 I think ) is good and flexible...remaining its upon ur creativity.
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
@nac no prime lens ?? if this is the choice I have to make then 18-135 (its canon 18-135 I think ) is good and flexible...remaining its upon ur creativity.
No no, in zoom those are the choices and they have two other zoom but I don't think I could get my hands on them (two variants of 70-200). In prime, I have 100 f/2.8, 85 f/1.8 and 50 f/1.4 to pick.
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Since I don't have camera with me, I am figuring out things in paper. If anyone who wants to know what would DOF, Hyperfocal, subject distance you would to need to shoot from, can try this excel sheet. For some, this may be of some use, so I am sharing.

Just punch information only in orange highlight cells.

DOF and Subject Distance Tool
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Discussed with the photographer. Yes, I can shoot alongside other photographers. Don't have to stay far away to get a different perspective. Tried 7D M2, overwhelming about of buttons and knobs for someone who come from compact camera.

One of the lens I want to use is either 85 f/1.8 or 100 f/2.8, but deciding which one is kinda tough. I have been digging images taken with 85 f/1.8 and 100 f/2.8 Macro IS and reading about them to decide on which one I should pick. I don't want to keep changing lenses during wedding, want to lock on to one of these two lenses.

100mm
+/- Sharp (many find it's too sharp for portraits and some photographers soften the images in post)
+ MFD
+ IS
+ Good for detail shots like rings, earrings...
+ Better colour/contrast

85mm
+ f/1.8
+ Faster AF
+ Shallower DOF
 
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nac

nac

Aspiring Novelist
Read user manual of 6D, had some doubts. Some of 'em are cleared now after googling, but don't see the point of AF ON button even after watching videos in youtube. If shutter button can do metering and AF with just one press, why I have to make it hard by choosing AF ON to AF while shutter button does metering alone?

I think Nikon too have this back button AF. Do you guys (both Canon and Nikon users) use this button? In what way it's better than shutter button? Any example scenarios esp. for portrait work?
 

sujoyp

Grand Master
That AF on button is used to Lock the AF while you shoot...it will not AF back and forth again n again. mostly I have heard people using it for bird in flight.
I have never used it...Just tested it. you AF and keep it pressed to AF lock and then click shutter button to take shots.

for potrait..I think human moves a lot...locking AF will not help...specially if AF on your lens is good.
 
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